Schiaparelli presents the Haute Couture Fall Winter 2026 collection with the title The Call of the Voidwith Daniel Rosebery turning creative uncertainty into a central force of the season. After discovering last season’s The Agony and the Ecstasy, Roseberry started with the idea that the process could be repeated. A trip to Barcelona to see Gaudí’s work was meant to act as a catalyst, but the expected formula failed. The collection began to move only when control gave way to delivery.
This tension shapes the entire season. Roseberry frames the collection around l’appel du vide, the French expression for the call of the void, using it as a way to describe the danger and joy of creating without certainty. For Schiaparelli, this idea is directly linked to the surrealist instinct of Elsa Schiaparelli. Surrealism, in this context, offers no escape. It reveals what logic cannot contain.
The collection takes couture away from the expected nobility of traditional materials. Instead of focusing on silks, satins and wools, the atelier works with latex, silicone and paint baked into sheets before being sculpted into silhouettes. This shift asks where beauty lies: in the material itself or in the imagination that can transform it.
House codes appear, but Roseberry refuses to treat them as static. The Schiaparelli jacket, usually a centerpiece, is accessorised, embroidered and detailed to enhance the full look rather than define it on its own. The gesture reflects the designer’s interest in remaking the familiar strange.
Material experimentation runs through the collection in exquisitely crafted pieces. One dress features a hyper-realistic bust sculpted, molded in silicone and painted milky blue. His skirt features a floral pattern made of hundreds of sock flowers strung over metal wires and pearls, with colors moving from cornflower blue to caramel. Another dress uses weightless sculptural crinoline tubes, while a jacket and leggings are covered in real flowers, fish scales and ribbon flowers, with kinetic latex tentacles extending from the shoulders.
The color also takes on a new intensity. Roseberry resembles flora and marine fauna, using lobster pink, violet, mandarin, saffron and soft mint against glossy black, raw wax ecru and Schiaparelli gold. At home, gold works beyond finishing. It becomes ornament, armor and sculptural surface.
Accessories extend the same mood of nature, twist and transformation. The Secret bag appears with crinoline spikes or embroidered flowers, while the new Bubble shoe introduces an alien metallic shape with a silicone sleeve. Jewelry includes gold-plated shell earrings with rose-pink porcelain insides, gold tentacle-shaped earrings, bracelets and necklaces, and silicone pieces reminiscent of sea anemones.
With The Call of the Void, Schiaparelli FW26 Haute Couture presents creation as a plunge into the unknown. Roseberry gives the season its power by allowing uncertainty to remain visible, turning fear, contradiction and experimentation into tailoring.
