Ann Demeulemeester plans three-stage quests for Rosalía


Ann Demeulemeester Rosalía
Courtesy of Ann Demeulemeester

Rosalie opens it LUX World Tour in Lyon wearing three custom Ann Demeulemeester looks from Wreath the French. The project continues the house’s long-standing relationship with music and performance, where clothing works in direct relation to movement and sound. For this tour, Gallici works in close dialogue with Rosalía and her creative team, translating the artist’s stage direction into clothes designed for live performance.

The first look creates a layered structure informed by ballet references. A wrap-around chiffon blouse gathers around the neckline with a twist tie closure and an open front hem, while built-in underarm ties allow the sleeves to adjust or detach in response to movement. Underneath, a pointe leotard follows a ballerina line with backless construction, built-in shorts and a high hip cut that supports full range of motion. The silhouette develops through a tiered pleated tutu formed from multiple layers of fine pleated tulle in varying lengths, creating volume and shape. A long narrow satin V-waistband wraps and ties at the back, holding the structure in place. Pale pink satin ballerina shoes complete the look, with a Mary Jane strap and subtle pleat at the toe that aligns with the ensemble’s controlled direction.

Ann Demeulemeester Rosalía
Courtesy of Ann Demeulemeester

The second look introduces a structured direction through adaptation references. A Napoleonic jacket forms the centerpiece, made of multiple panels and extended into an elongated tail. Lace and cotton ruffles define the stand-up collar and front closure, while detachable two-piece sleeves echo the gathered construction seen throughout the wardrobe. Lace accents, contrasting tape and piping add detail without disrupting the overall line. The jacket is paired with flared trousers, maintaining a balance between structure and movement. Black leather mid-calf boots rounded out the look, defined by a clean silhouette with a rough edge and fastened with two silver straps.

The final look shifts the silhouette into a theatrical form shaped by volume and extension. A multi-layered chiffon dress is gathered at the neckline with an adjustable front tie, while a criss-cross lace trim runs across the bodice and extends to the back. Two high front slits with adjustable drawstrings allow the garment to shift during the performance, leading to a 15m train that extends the silhouette across the stage. A crinoline structure supports the dress through light boning and vertical bands, draped in chiffon and finished with hand-applied lace.

Courtesy of Ann Demeulemeester

Accessorize the finished look with tall black satin boots with a lace-up front, an internal zip fastening, a slightly boxy silhouette and a curved heel. A feathered feather strap creates volume across the back, made of layers of chiffon and tulle shaped to evoke feathers and finished with rooster feathers. An adjustable belt secures the piece in place. The look is finished with a distressed headdress built on a lace base, with twin winged wings and flowing chiffon elements that extend the silhouette upwards.



Source link

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *